Bumping along in Norfolk

The reason why most people miss out on this wonderful island is because the island doesn't have a decent bay to shelter from the wind, waves and swell. Cascade bay is the best one on the island and if you could see us now you would raise your eye brows. We don't have the 4.5 meter swell that is out there but we have the wind coming into the bay and a good wind chop. Mom and Genevieve, it's like the anchorage in Fiji when the storm blew through and then we had that steady uncomfortable rock all night long!!!! The good thing is Merric won't have to go through the adjustment phase the first day out. It looks as though we will have a nice passage down to New Zealand. Tonight is Halloween and we have been invited by a local family I met as school the other day to go Trick or Treat. The kids are so excited!

Let me back up two days ago..a teacher, Susanne Evans, stood on the wharf until someone could come out and get us. She wanted us to come to school and tell our story. We ended up visiting 4 classes and had a fantastic time. The schools have incredible (touch screen) smart boards!! They pulled up maps off the internet and we were able to manipulate them on the board. My kids even had the chance to play T-ball. LOL! You should see what happens with cruisers on land.

Norfolk Island -- most of the residents are decedents of the famous Christian Fletcher -- ala Mutiny on the Bounty. It eventually reached a point that Pitcairn Island could no longer support the population and most of the people were relocated to Norfolk Island many years ago. Susanne Evans and her family are the descendants from Pitcairn island. She helps celebrate and preserve the rich history of Norfolk island, the original language and filled us in on some ghost stories from the "Convict" days. She is someone I will not soon forget and hope to see again. Thank you.

As a side note: As we were walking down the road yesterday, we were picked up by John Buffett. Of course we asked if he had any relation to Jimmy and he said he wasn't sure but that Jimmy Buffett did come out to the island, with some of his family, a few years back and held a concert. There is a large amount of Buffett's here on Norfolk . Correction: Local population-1800.

A little history on Norfolk

After touring the island yesterday we were so captivated by it's beauty and rich history that I had to put my hands on the past. Captain Cook made first European discovery in 1774 and named this place "paradise" in his journal. I understand now what he meant by that. In 1825, a penitentiary was built and the island became what us Americans call Alcatraz. These prisoners were part of a chain gang and housed in pairs in a 6x5 foot cell. They tended to put those who didn't get along together to make life on this prison island even more torture. We also learned along our walk through the ruins is that some prisoners were sentenced to life, death and even dissection. They had a room where doctors would dissect a body to try and learn about insanity, what made them different that the average human, and also parts of the body in general. The view outside the "New Gaol" ruins is just breathtaking with the massive waves smashing against the rocks. It gives an eerie feeling of what was. It felt like I could close my eyes and smell the dark, dank and wet Georgian building coming to life. I can hear the screams of the prisioners and the chains. I could see the dread on the prisoners faces as they walked through the threshold.

Norfolk Island

This little rock in the middle of the ocean has been such a delight. Our first impression upon arrival is a barren rock with cliffs and littered with Norfolk pines. Little do we know that it is populated by 2000 of the nicest people in the South Pacific. One of the locals left us a car on the wharf for us to use as we wish. Today we spent 7 hours shopping, eating, touring and enjoying this "Honeymoon" island. We are waiting for a few more days for the weather to improve to head south to New Zealand. The anchorage here isn't the calmest (we are rocking side to side as I type) but it's the only and best one here so I shouldn't complain. Today we outfitted the kids with new sneakers and warm clothes before we head south into the cold. We want to be ready!!! 29.01.1S 167.58.5E

Glitter on the ocean

After enduring a rather bumpy start we are enjoying a great two days of light wind and glossy seas. Last night the stars were so bright and the glitter from the fluorescence lit up the night. The temperature is dropping and it's rather chilly in the evening but we are prepared this year. Our plan is to sit out a few days of strong winds that would be on the nose for us in Norfolk and then head out for our final leg. We are very happy so far with the weather pattern we picked out for this passage. All is well on Free Spirit. 27.58S 167.30E

Leaving New Caledonia

For the past week we have been living and breathing weather gribs. Every morning is the same. I get myself up, say good morning and ask...."What's it look like?" We analyze the weather like scientist, we plan our plays like football, and prepare ourselves for the storm. We have spent the last week doing play by plays with wind angles, speed, distance, possible stop over and just hauling butt to NZ. It's a passage that 99.9% of cruisers dread. We finally came up with a play we liked and set out this morning at 0600. We will have crap for the first 24 hours, then light winds and will motor and need to get into Norfolk island by Tues morning or we will get slammed with 25 knots of wind on the nose. We will wait in Norfolk till the strong low down there passes and we will ride in on a high. The seas right now down in that neck of the woods is 25 foot. We are lucky to have Norfolk as a stop over. Google Norfolk Island (Australia) and see the little rock we are headed to. We are with 6 others and keeping tabs via VHF but as of tomorrow we will communicate via SSB. It's always nice to know your not alone. Our current position is 24.40S 166.13E and getting cooler.

Meeting up with friends and reviving old stories

When we first started our journey, almost 5 years ago, we met a couple in St. Martin. After crossing paths many times we finally had a chance to sit and chat again. What we didn't realize is we would leave them with a story that has traveled with them. They wrote about us on their website and this is what they wrote:

Friends at Sea - Blueprint Match

Saturday, 30. September 2006, 17:37:04

BLUEPRINT MATCH

This sailing adventure has been a steep learning curve not least of all is bringing the fragile skin of our boat up against the rock hard and unforgiving dockside. As we approach the dock it has been a case of adjust the fender, move this one left that one right a bit. Now the height is not right, untie and redo. Now the next fender but quicker the gap is closing. Rope is knotted and fingers fumble. Still have to organise the docklines so leave fender and coil rope. Now no-one on the dock to catch the line so I will have to jump. One leg over the safety rail. Not yet, too far, too high. Back over the rail. Whoops! Move a fender quick. Jump now. No! Too far I’ll never make it. Go forward. Where’s the rope? Rope stuck, drop coil. Look for end of rope. Jump with rope, NO! Put rope down and prepare to jump. No good, I won’t reach rope from the dock. Step back over rail. Fender too low. Start untying. Throw rope… into water. Recoil rope with one hand while retying fender with other. Can’t do either. Throw fender NO! Jump rope NO! Recoil nerves. We have had moments of sheer panic and it has taken time learning to manage these manoeuvres without too much terror. Having said that each time throws up a new set of parameters for us to deal with, but at least now there is minimal yelling between us.

Way back in February while “Mind the Gap” was high and dry on the hard we watched from the safety of the land as “Blueprint Match” approached the dock. A catamaran with one engine down is even more difficult to manoeuvre and the gusty wind was blowing them onto the shore. Already tied to the dock were other yachts leaving just enough space for them to squeeze into. They had to negotiate a tricky exercise of parallel parking.

Closing the gap to the hard rapidly, and a space where a fender needed to be, it reached a stage when things looked like they could go horribly pear-shaped.

It was at this critical point that he (Paul as we found out later on meeting them) left the steering and without a word walked across the deck to adjust a fender. Michele, over on the foredeck, skipped with the sprightliness of youth and the grace of a ballet dancer over all the deck hardware and called out sweetly “ It’s okay Honey, I got it”. With that Paul went back to steering.

We were aghast! Where were the popping eyeballs? Where was that throbbing vein standing proud on the forehead, the foul language, and other “pleasantries” yelled loud enough for the entire bay to hear? (sound travels so well over water). Where were the stubbed toes and bruised shins? Where was the PANIC? Later we realised they had two under four year olds aboard to boot! Not a peep out of them. Had they been drugged or what!

It was a moment neither of us will forget soon but most of all we learnt a fabulous catchphrase. – “It’s okay Honey I got it”. For all our following tense moments on our learning curve one of us would use these words to diffuse a stressful situation. Admittedly sometimes they were uttered through gritted teeth with an eagle eyed stare and a voice thick with sarcasm and sometimes they were said after the panic but they always managed to lighten the mood. Most of all they always bring a smile.

So, here’s to you Michele and Paul.
Thanks.
Happy sailing

www.gregoadventure.com

Priceless moments - Kuto, Isle of Pins

Things have been very relaxing and beautiful here. Today I spent one of the most magical afternoons with my little family. There is a hike around the point where we are anchored called the "Knob". I packed a lunch and we headed out for the trail. As we started our hike we came across a large sea snake just below the trail sitting on a rock in the water. It had beautiful black and light blue bands and Merric was explaining to us the design of his tail which helps his swim in the water. It was just an amazing experience for all of us. As we continued on we found a little clearing with an incredible view of an island in the distance and the swells pounding along the jagged rock ledge. It was priceless to hear my kids tell me how much fun they are having and how beautiful it was. Paul and I couldn't help but smile. Seanna LOVES picnics so this made her day. When we started hiking again we found so many beautiful shells and at one point it felt like we were looking for easter eggs and pointing them out everywhere. Merric was having a blast looking at dead trees and discovering termites and other small creatures. Seanna kept saying, "Mom, this is the best day of my life". As we were looking for shells on our trail we came across another sea snake. It was slithering by a near by tree just off the trail. During the hike I kept thinking that is must be easy for the sea snakes to just come right up here since we were walking right on a cliff. We quietly approached it from behind and watched him for a little while. When we felt is was safe we let Merric touch his tail and after Paul tried to pick him up with a long stick. The snake was very calm and it was exciting to watch my two boys. Do I need to say how incredible it was for Merric??? A full bag of shells later and a walk through old prison ruins we made it to the beach and back to the boat.

Tsunami warning - New Caledonia round 2

Just as we took a break from home-school we received a Tsunami alert from the local Gendarmarie (Police) to evacuate the anchorage. A report of another earth quake 7.8 in Vanuatu and a wave was under way. This really gets us uptight as we were just playing in Vanuatu for over a month and we are not too far away. We hope that our friends in Vanuatu are safe and hope to hear from them soon. We got a bit frustrated when we couldn't make out what the French coast guard was saying due to a loud hum on their radio. After repeated attempts by several boats to get information we think we heard it was safe to return to port. Upon our return we had the Gendarmarie waving us at the beach to return back out to sea. Just as we turned to head back out the VHF started the hum but I could finally make out what the Coast Guard was saying, "Tsunami warning has been lifted". We are now re-anchored and keeping our ears open to any info. Don't know any news about the devastation in Vanuatu as we wanted to get this email out to family asap so they don't panic. Please send any info you can about what happened.

Love,
Michele

The unexpected

You never know what to expect out here...

Our next destination: Ilse of Pins
Distance: 120 miles
Desired wind direction: E and anything north of E
Desired Speed: 15 Knots
One overnight

Our weather indicated a E wind shifting to the NE at 15 by midnight so all was a go. We headed out to winds on our nose (South) and sailing not in the direction we wanted to go. We sailed fast across to New Caledonia but needed to head way south to the Ilse of Pins. We decided to stick it out and see if the wind would shift. Paul called up more weather a few hours later only to get unfavorable information. Okay, so it's not going to be our best passage but lets make the best of it. Trying to keep a speed up so we will arrive during the day. As night approached we started to get ready to settle down and start watches. Merric was sleeping outside and Seanna was going down in our room and Paul was brushing his teeth when Seanna called out "I just threw up". Shoot, she is in our room and we just pulled out all the warm blankets since it's starting to get cold. So, now I am cleaning up Seanna and Paul is pulling off sheets and pillows. Poor baby. She usually doesn't get sick and if she does she is quick about getting somewhere easy to clean. At the last anchorage a boat friend of ours gave me some hamburger helper. Now, I am not one to use stuff like this but since we were under passage and it was easy I figured I would give it a try. Well, It didn't sit right with Seanna and probably will never touch that stuff again. Nothing is easy out here. Now we have to sleep on mattresses fully clothed until we reach our destination so we can do laundry. Fun Fun!!!!

We made it in safe and sound. It's just beautiful. I can see why they call it the island of Pines. It's full of Pine trees.
22.39S 167.26E